I'm fairly set on getting a 10k symmetric/asymmetric combo variant. After going down numerous rabbit holes, it seems like a solid "all around" choice for the types of vehicles I'd primarily be lifting. While I do own a larger 2000 SRW F350, I wouldn't say my goal is to do nothing but 1 tons, DRW, or school busses that would warrant larger. Big goal of mine has been to get into another fun project car and life access makes the work so much more enjoyable.

I'm a little stuck trying to figure out an adequate bay length and lift position. Attached is what I have planned now in a way that I believe maximizes space really well for automotive and other uses.  The length I've allocated for said "bay" is right at 25'. Most company brochures recommend 24' as a minimum. It's very difficult for me to gauge distances and such from youtube videos and images, but wondering how I'd fare lifting something like a 22' long bed truck. I don't want to make paper assumptions as simple as splitting the truck in 2 and call it 11' split down the middle because I don't think it works like that in reality given weight distribution.

All in all, curious if anyone of you out there have experience with 2 post lifts and have lifted long bed trucks in your configuration and how much space was required. Happy to clarify anything further! 

I have a lot of Milwaukee battery powered tools already but they use the M12 battery system. I am not married to Milwaukee but you can see my attachment to that brand.

Milwaukee makes an M12 powered impact gun: 2563P-20 Stubby 1/2" (mid-torque).

It appears as if this would do the job and allow me to just buy the tool and not have to worry about different battery styles and chargers (Milwaukee M18 or other brands).

I see all sort of guns on FB Marketplace but there are so many choices. If I do buy something other than Milwaukee, I'd prefer brands I know that are good/trustworthy (DeWalt, Porter-Cable, Ridgid, Ryobi, Makita....).

Thoughts?

1986 F-150 5.0 EFI

Randomly decided not to start, coil was clicking, but nothing from the starter.  Watched the battery and it was dropping to 5-6 volts.  Tried charging and it didn't appear to want to take a charge so I replaced it.  New battery sitting at 12.5, solenoid clicks, no start.  Fast forward, all cables are only a couple years old, starter, battery, solenoid are all new.  Solenoid is clicking but the starter isn't spinning.  With cables connected, grounds and positive cables are all less than 1ohm resistance, including on the tab of the starter to ensure a good connection to the positive cable from the solenoid.  Still nothing. Also confirmed the fuse going to the alternator is good.  

As I was playing around a little more, volt meter on negative side of battery and starter side of solenoid, key off, I'm reading -12.5 volts.  Negative side of battery to hot side of solenoid, I'm reading 12.5 volts.  Check resistance across the solenoid and I get an overload indicating no connection inside the coil.  I'm stumped.  Do I have stray current running through the ground that is causing an issue?  Any ideas on what to check next? 

Side question.  If I check resistance between the positive tab on the starter and the starter body, should have a connection between the two?  

Much appreciated.

Here is one I made that uses an old car dipstick to check waste oil level. It's a home made welded together funnel setup I made from steel angle, steel rod, and old red primered purlin steel sheet, and used a piece of 3/4" conduit for the funnel end. This clamps to a 5 gallon paint thinner drum lip. We have a lot of these empty 5 gallon drums at work so I grabbed 4 of em. 3 are waste oil, and one is used antifreeze

When I pour my waste oil in, I leave the old filter in my funnel setup to drip dry, and made a hook to hold the drain pan so it drips into the funnel.

My city takes the waste oil, waste antifreeze, and oil filters and plastic containers. So when I'm up to 10 gallons and several filters that's where I take it.  This makes oil changes easier. Check the dipstick and yep, I got room, so in it goes. Lol

What kind of cool homemade tools do you have that you want to share? Please share it here. 

So.. how do you get them apart easily? Wasn't there some specialty pliers or tool made for these things.. in the 90s?

Separating them really doesn't need to be a two man operation 🤣

Thoughts?

Does anyone have experience with LMC or Dennis Carpenter sending units? The LMC one is less than half the Dennis Carpenter, but I dont know if thats because its crap or not.

LMC: https://www.lmctruck.com/fuel-system/gas-tanks-parts/fd-1980-96-side-mount-gas-tank-and-components

DC:https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/fuel-system/gas-tank-sending-unit/e0tz-9275-gx-gas-tank-sending-unit?_gl=1*svyica*_up*MQ..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJCp77mtjgMVTiZECB1Vjw05EAAYASAAEgIVv_D_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADfdpINbOFzG6n1f1iSH9Nn5RF-AZ

Also there are the part store ones... O'riellys, NAPA, Autozone, etc

Thanks in advance! 

Any thing I need to do special before I reassemble?  This is my first truck project other than small stuff like an alternator replacement.

Any and all hints, tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated.

I could use help with a few things.

Right now the the VCS that is circled is routed to the EGR, that dosnt seem correct. What is the EGR supposed to be routed to? Its hard to tell from this diagram.

The Carb has markings on the diagram for 3, S, and E. Im not sure what they stand for and where there are located on the carb.

lastly, i am completely missing the VCV circled, is has a block off on it do i need that line? 

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!